From St. Louis University
Jan.1,1847
No. XXIV.
A. M. D. G.
St. Louis University, January lst, 1847.
VERY REV. AND DEAR FATHER PROVINCIAL, You are already acquainted with our determination to accompany the Black-Feet in returning to their country. In the sequel of this letter you will learn, with pleasure, how far Almighty God has blessed our humble efforts in carrying this resolution into effect. After the battle, described in my letter from the Yellow-Stone camp, the Crows, it appears, fled to the Wind River Mountains, determined, however, to avenge themselves on the Black-Feet, whom they now designed to follow into their own country. The latter, probably through fear of this assault, resolved to remain with the Flat-Head camp, until it reached the head waters of the Muscle-shell River. In leaving the Yellow-Stone our direction lay towards the north, through a broken and undulating, dry and woodless country, 'destitute of any water fit to drink-stagnant pools of brackish water being the only kind found here to satiate the thirst. Only a few straggling bulls were seen or killed, scarcely sufficient, indeed, to supply the wants of our numerous camp. The great variety of matter incidental to this journey with the united Indian camp, will appear, perhaps, more satisfactory if given in the same order in which it was entered in my diary ; I therefore present you with an extract from it: -
8th Sept., 1846. The elements of discord existing between the Nez-Percés and Black-Feet, there is every appearance of an open rupture. The Nez-Percés being evidently in the wrong, the Flat-Heads, following our example, endeavor to convince them of the impropriety of their conduct; but to no purpose-, the principal men among them refusing, for the second time, o smoke the calumet of peace.
9th. Towards night a touching incident occurred in our lodge. A Nez-Percé chief, who declares himself our friend, entered, accompanied by three Black-Feet, a warrior, an interpreter, and a young man about twenty years of age. This youth, when about one year old, lost both his parents; his mother, a captive among the Black-Feet, died the first days of her captivity; his father, whose country is far distant from the Black-Feet, is altogether lost to him. The poor orphan became the adopted child of a Black-Foot woman, who brought him up as she would her own offspring. The adopted son grew up, imbibing all the notions and customs of his new friends, knowing no other relations than those around him. To-day, the woman whom he believed to be his real mother, declared to him that she was not; and that his father, whom he had not seen since he was one year old, was now sitting beside him, " Who is my father ? " he anxiously enquired. " There," said the woman, pointing to the Nez-Percé chief, who entered the lodge with him. The doubts of the father were soon removed, as he hastily stripped. the youth's garments from his back, and there discovered the mark of a burn received in the parental lodge while yet an infant. The sudden burst of feeling elicited from these children of nature at this unexpected meeting, can be better imagined than described. The chief has no grown children, he is therefore the more eloquent in endeavoring to persuade his son to return to his native country, presenting him, at the same time, with one of the best and most beautiful of his steeds. I joined to the entreaties of the father, the strongest motives I could urge. The son, whose heart is divided between nature and grace, begged to be allowed to bid farewell to the companions and friends of his youth, who were now absent-he could not, he declared, thus abruptly leave her who, with motherly care and anxiety, had watched over him so many years, and whom he had always so tenderly loved, and looked upon as his mother. “Now that the Black-gowns are with us," he said, "I desire to be of the happy number of those who are about to introduce them to my friends, and to listen to the words of the Great Spirit, whom they have come to announce. After that, but not before, shall I follow my father."
10th. The Nez-Percés announce their determination of leaving the united camp. The Flat-Heads, who dread more the presence of a friend ; capable of injuring their souls, than that of an ,enemy who can only hurt the body, are excessively rejoiced at this announcement. The Black-Feet also are highly pleased to see them go. The separation took place about 8 o'clock; but they had gone only a short distance from the camp, when, fearing an attack from the Crows, they rejoined the main body, determined to remain as long as the great hunt shall last. To avoid the outbreak, evidently threatened by the ill-will of the Nez-Percés, the Black-Feet have resolved to leave the camp on the morrow. This day I baptized a Nez-Percés, who had been shot in the late battle with the Crows-he cannot survive much longer.
11th. Farewell to the Flat-Heads. All came to shake hands with us, the grief of their hearts was depicted in their countenances; we all perceived how deeply they felt the separation. A great number of their cavaliers accompany us for a considerable distance ; six go as far as our encampment, not less than twenty-five miles.
Our course lay through an extensive level plain, at the very base of the Muscle-shell mountains. These rise abruptly- from the plain around, resembling broken, elevated islands in the midst of the ocean, and their tops tufted with a heavy growth of cedar and pine. While admiring the singular appearance of the scenery, my attention is called off to a very distressing accident. An old Indian is seen falling from his horse, receiving in the fall a severe wound between his eyes ; he remains senseless, all efforts to revive him are fruitless. It was the old Black-Foot chief, NICHOLAS, whom I baptized five years ago ; he acted, ever since, the part of a most effective missionary, in preparing the way for the introduction of the gospel among his tribe. o-day he entered what he called his own country, chanting hymns of praise and thanksgiving in the happy anticipation of soon presenting us to his brethren. He dies ! not even a sigh escapes him. Oh, how profound are the designs of God. Happily he leaves a son worthy of so excellent a sire. His attachment to religion equals that of his father. Having resided several years among the Flat-Heads, he has acquired a perfect knowledge of their language - acting in the capacity of interpreter, he has already rendered me considerable assistance. Notwithstanding his great grief, he performs the last sad offices near the tomb of his father with the composure and firmness of a Christian. It is customary among the Black-Feet to express their grief by wailings and lacerations of the body, calculated only to afflict those around, though intended by them as a mark of respect towards the lamented dead. The son of NICHOLAS, himself a chief and a great brave, knowing the Christian practice, passes the night in prayer, with his wife and children, near the funeral couch of his father. His friends and brother, Pegans (pagan in name and in fact), would now and then gather around him, and kneeling beside the mourner, pour forth, Christian-like, many a pious ejaculation on behalf of their deceased chieftain. The remains of the venerable chief were placed in the grave by the hands of his own son, and over his tomb the emblem of salvation was raised-the cross of the Saviour, whose words were now for the first time announced to the lonely tribes of this long-benighted wilderness. At the very moment the last prayers of the funeral service were uttered, " May he rest in peace," a busy stir breaks the death-like silence of the surrounding crowd of Indians. A Flat-Head approached in full gallop, announcing the pleasing intelligence that two Black-Feet had reached their camp, and informed them that the tribe of NICHOLAS was within two days march of us.
12th. The very evening of the day on which NICHOLAS was interred, immense herds of buffalo -are seen in the neighborhood of the camp. All are preparing for the chase-hunters throwing the lasso over their buffalo horses, already prancing and capering for a race-all ready to start ; but before they separate, they halt for a moment, and, in imitation of the Flat-Heads, all are seen on their knees to beg of Almighty God their daily bread; when again mounted, off they bound at full speed, each for one, two, or three fat cows, according to the strength of his favorite steed. The supper was abundant in every lodge, regiments of steaks were paraded before all the fires. My fire was encircled with tongues, or other dainty dishes reserved for the Blackgown ; and all who visited our lodge were of course invited to partake of the superabundant supply. Among my visitors, one in particular distinguished himself by his originality and good sense-his words were accompanied with expressive signs, which rendered his conversation very agreeable ; he related to me what he observed while in the Flat-Head camp:-" When we first arrived," said he, " we had abundance of provisions with us, while the Flat-Heads and Nez-Percés were fasting; we were visited, and all partook of what we had. The Flat-Head differed from the Nez-Percés ; the former prayed before he ate, the latter did not. On the Lord's-day, the Flat-Heads remained quiet in the lodges, they frequently prayed, and spoke to us words of the Great Spirit to make us good; but the Nez-Percés, painted, and proud of their feathers, were seen going here and there, more for evil than good, without reserve, before our young people. But then came the battle with the Crows, and the Nez-Percés, though the least brave of us all, and the least exposed, have had to weep over the loss of one of their men, and another is dying of his wounds. This made me believe the words I had heard the Flat-Head say, I that the Great Spirit is good to the good, but that. he can find the wicked at pleasure to punish them a,, they may deserve."
The wonderful success of the Flat-Heads in the different `ears they have been compelled to wage, has confirmed their enemies in the persuasion entertained for some years, that the medicine of the Black-gowns is stronger than their own. Two Indians of the Pegan camp have just arrived, apprising us of their approach.
13th. Sunday. - We, are obliged to move camp;-every dry stick had been burned where we passed the night, and the rain has rendered the only other substitute for fuel, buffalo dung, unfit for use ;-the rain which was falling as we travelled, changed into sleet and hail. After a long day's march we encamp for the night, in a beautiful cotton grove, on the margin of the Judith river.
The bad weather prevented the re-union of the two camps; it will be so much the more remarkable, as to-morrow will be the feast of the Exaltation of the Cross. The chief enquires, if it would please us to see the Black-Feet manifest their joy in their own way, that is, by painting, singing and dancing; the answer was " Do the best you can to show your friends that you are pleased." We learn by an express, just arrived, that. the BIG LAKE, the great chief of the Pegans, harangued his people, exhorting them to behave orderly, and to listen with attention to all that the Fathers would say to them. He is accompanied by the great Tail-Bearer, a kind of orator, or aid-de-camp to the chief. His tail, composed of buffalo and horse-hair, is about seven or eight feet long, and instead of wearing it behind, according to the usual fashion, it is fastened above his forehead, and there formed' into a spiral, coil, resembling a rhinoceros' horn. Such a tail, among the Black-Feet, is a mark of great distinction and bravery - in all probability, the longer the tail, the braver the person.
14th. An agreeable disappointment. The Flat-Head camp, from which we separated four days ago, is only about ten miles from us. They sent an invitation to the Big Lake, desiring, at the same time, to trade with him on friendly terms. Opinions are divided among the people of the Big Lake. The chief is for postponing the trade until the meeting with the Black-gowns takes place ; the Tail-Bearer gives the preference to trade. The chief's voice prevails. An Indian from the camp arrives about ten o'clock, to herald their approach; all the horses are immediately saddled, and the two Black-gowns, at the head of a numerous band of cavaliers, forming one extensive line, in single file, proceed through a beautiful open plain, the air resounding with songs of triumphal joy. We are soon in sight of each other-a loud discharge from all the guns was the signal to dismount, when the Big-Lake and Tail-Bearer, followed by the whole tribe, walked up to give us a warm and affectionate shake of the hand. Smoking came next ; and after the friendly pipe had passed from mouth to mouth, and had made several rounds, they communicate to each other the news since parting. I made to them my preparatory address, to dispose their minds and hearts to listen with attention to the word of God. To this appeal they responded with a loud and cheerful expression of the satisfaction they felt in listening to the Black-gown. We had scarcely introduced our new friends into the camp, before the Flat-Heads and Nez-Percés were seen approaching. Their meeting was still more joyful and cordial than the one we had just witnessed among the people of the Big-Lake. This is not astonishing, when you know them; the savage is naturally reserved towards men he does not know. The candid, open ways of acting which distinguish our neophytes soon communicate themselves to the Black-Feet, and before the sun went down, Black-Feet, Flat-Heads, young and old, all show equal pleasure to find us, on such an occasion, in the midst of them.
After evening prayers were said in the Black-Foot and Flat-Head languages, I addressed to them a short discourse on the happy re-union and peaceful disposition that now existed between the two nations. What a pleasing sight What a consoling triumph for religion, to behold those warriors, whose deep-scarred faces told of the many bloody battles they had had together, who could never meet before but with feelings of deadly enmity, thirsting for each other's blood,-now bending the knee before their common Father in prayer, as with one heart, and listening with delight to the words of the peaceful Redeemer. The chiefs and the principal men of both nations passed the evening in my lodge. VICTOR, the great Flat-Head chief, gains the good.-will of all-charms everybody by the suavity and dignified simplicity of his manners. He relates some of his exploits, not indeed to appear conspicuous, as is evident from the modest and simple way in which he speaks, but to make them fully sensible of the protection which the Great Spirit extends to those who are devoted to His holy cause. The Black-Feet who were engaged in the late battle with the Crows, confirm the statements of Victor, and recount many edifying circumstances which they had witnessed in the Flat-Head camp. The making of the sign of the cross was highly extolled, as a certain sign of victory to those who had already given their hearts to the true God. It is truly to-day the Exaltation of the Holy Cross.
15th. The Octave of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin. The new disciples of the cross assist at a solemn Mass, sung in, the open plain, under the canopy of green boughs, to beg for the blessings of God upon this wilderness and its wandering tribes, and unite them in the bond of p-lace. Flat-Heads, Nez-Percés, Pegans, Blood Indians, Gros-Ventres and Black-Feet, numbering about two thousand, all surround the altar of the living God, on which " the clean oblation is offered," in their behalf. It is a thing unheard of, that among so many different savage nations, hitherto so inimical to one another, unanimity and joy, such -as we now witness, should exist, --it appears as if their ancient deadly feuds had been long since buried in oblivion; and this is the more remarkable in an Indian who, it is well known, cherishes feelings of revenge for many years. How long will this last? May Heaven strengthen their present good-will, and grant, them perseverance. Mention is already made of baptizing all the Pegan children, but the ceremony is postponed on account of the general rejoicing, and the affairs of business that now occupy the camp.
16th. The engaging simplicity and cordiality of the Flat-Head chiefs have gained them the affections of all the principal men of the Black-Feet tribe,-conduct the more remarkable, when contrasted with the turbulent disposition of the Nez-Perc6s, who are kept in check only by the presence of the Flat-Heads. At this second separation, they came again to renew their affection towards us. The Flat-head chiefs remain last in the camp to see everything pass off
orderly and amicably. In the evening the Black-Feet assemble around our fire, where the first canticle is composed in their language ; the subject of the composition is the consecration of their persons to the " Supreme Ruler of all things." Apistotokie Nina, Pikanniai tokanakos akos pemmoki tzagkoma Achziewa ziekamolos.
17th. Nothing very remarkable took place. We received the visit of a war party of Blood Indian, the most cruel among the Black-Feet. From them we learn that their tribe will be delighted to receive a visit from us, - that our persons are considered sacred among them, - that we need apprehend no danger, and, to remove all uneasiness on this head, that sixty of their children had already received baptism at the hands of a Black-gown, whom they met on the Sascatshawin, and that these children constantly wear the crosses and medals which the Black-gown gave them.
18th. News in great variety. Two Gros-Ventres have been killed by the Crows. Seven families of Pegans have been followed by a numerous band of Crees, and have probably been destroyed. A chief, just arrived, informs us that Black-Feet of different tribes are assembling in the neighborhood of Fort Lewis to receive their annual supplies, and that the traders who bring up the goods are distant only three days' journey, with three large canoes (Mackinaw boats). About two o'clock in the afternoon the camp prepares for another great hunt.
19th. Baptism was this day conferred on upwards of one hundred children and two old men, with all the usual ceremonies. To enter into a full description of these, calculated, as they are, to leave a deep and lasting impression upon the minds of all present, would be but a repetition of what has been already stated in my former letters on the like occasions.
20th. Arrival of a great war party of Blood Indians. They are returning from an expedition against the Crows, having carried off twenty-seven horses belonging to the latter. The leaders of this party, one a son, the other a brother of the great chief, exhibit towards us particular marks of friendship. The elder, who worshiped the sun and moon, has long since ceased to invoke these deities - he confirms the statement of the other party, that we shall meet with a hearty welcome among his tribe. The BlackFeet nation consists of about fourteen thousand souls, divided into six tribes, to wit: the Pegans, the Surcees, the Blood Indians, the Gros-Ventres (descendants of the Rapahos), the Black-Feet (proper), and the Little Robes. These last were almost entirely destroyed in 1845.
21st. A feast is given in my lodge to the newcomers. It is preceded by the baptism of a Pegan, who had been an old chief, but who, on account of age, resigned the dignity of his title in favor of his brother. He possesses the gift of speech in an eminent degree. He is daily here, repeating and commenting on the instructions given by us. He exercises over his flock a very happy influence, and it is, doubtless, owing to his exertions that the Pegans are the first among the Black-Feet tribe to manifest favorable dispositions, and they will probably be the first also to embrace and put in practice the saving truths of Christianity. He presents, in his own person, a rare exception among his people, and indeed the only instance I have met with in my intercourse with the Indians, especially in one of his age-of an Indian having lived with one and the same wife, and with her also in perfect peace and harmony. He received in baptism the united name of IGNATIUS XAVIER, the medal having that impress--which he constantly wears, to remind him of the virtues which distinguish those saints. Let us hope that the first graces bestowed on this tribe may soon produce fruits of salvation to all.
22d. A day of great rejoicing - a dance. All the Indian fineries are produced, all the war-caps, adorned with eagle feathers, figure in the dance-a thousand voices join in the song-the rejoicing prolonged till evening. The common prayers have all been translated-already several know what is to be believed. May the practice of good soon take deep root in their hearts. SATA, our interpreter, acts the part of an Apostle-after each interpretation, he resumes his discourse, and speaking from the abundance of his heart, produces a powerful effect upon his audience. The word Seta does not differ in signification from Satan, and as the Indian generally receives his name from the natural disposition he manifests, we may safely conclude, when such a name is given to a Black-Foot, that the grace of God has operated most powerfully in converting this savage to what he is at present.
23d. Nothing remarkable happened, except a trial given to faith of the new catechumens. A theft of two horses was committed in the camp by a stranger, residing among the Flat-Heads. Some individuals from the western side of the mountains, occasionally forget what they should be; but a few isolated misdeeds, highly disapproved of by the entire nation, show to the best advantage the good spirit that animates the great mass of them. The critical position of the robber serves in some degree as an extenuation of his guilt. He had advanced a considerable distance from the Flat-Head camp, on his way to join us about the time we should reach the. Black Indians ; when he was given to understand that his life was in great danger from the war parties prowling in the rear. The poor fellow did not feel much inclined to meet death in this way, and his meagre horse not being very well able to avoid the meeting, proprio motu he left his, in exchange for two other horses, fully equal to the task of sweeping him past the danger. These horses will, however, be returned to the owner. This is not the first instance of restitution among the Indians.
Sept. 24th. The missionaries, accompanied by a great number of Indians, precede the camp on its way to Fort Lewis, now only a few miles off. I am accosted by a little Pegan chief, who invites me to smoke. He tells me that he has come to the determination of settling at the Fort an unfortunate personal difficulty between himself and another chief of the Blood Indian tribe. " I am going to meet," said he, "my mortal enemy, a Blood Indian chieftain, renowned for his. courage, but much more for his wicked heart. He treacherously murdered a Nez-Percé, while under my protection. I should be dishonored forever if I did not avenge this shameful act, and wash the stain from my nation in his blood. I shot the murderer in his own lodge--he did not die-his wound is healed -he awaits my arrival, resolved to kill me. I dread him not, for I also am a chief. I have heard your words, and other feelings have crept over my heart. Black-gown, hear what I am about to do: I will present to him the best horse of my band to cover his wound; if he accepts it, well and good, if not, I must kill him." I offered myself as a mediator between them, before any steps should be taken, and promised him a favorable issue, according to the conviction of my own heart; for, as I had never witnessed the spilling of one drop of human blood, I felt assured that Almighty God would spare me the painful sight on the present occasion. We continue our route. The little chief and his Pegan friends prepare their arrows and load their guns. When in sight of the Fort, two Black-Feet came running up towards us, to tell the little chief that if he approached any further, or any of his people, their lives would be in danger; and they returned as they came, running to announce the arrival of the Black-gowns. The bell of the, Fort is sending forth a solemn peal, to honor, as it subsequently appeared, the arrival of the Black-gowns-a mark of respect' generally paid to a priest by its inmates, who are chiefly French Canadians and Spaniards. Heedless of the admonition we had received, we proceeded to the Fort in full gallop. The gates were thrown open. We received a hearty welcome from every white man in the Fort ; the bourgeois being absent, soon returned, to add by their kindness and- politeness to the warm reception we had already received at the hands of their tenants. The first compliments over, two horses were saddled for Father Point and myself, when we went over to an island formed by the waters of the Missouri, where the murderer and his band were encamped. The great neatness in the lodge of the latter, to whom I had already sent word, showed that it was prepared for our reception. We entered first, followed by our Pegan friends; then came the Blood Indians, and last of all the murderous chief, with a countenance far from serene-savage vengeance visibly lurking in his breast. He shook hands only with the Black-gowns, and sat down silent and surly. I explained to him the object of my visit, and pleaded strongly for a reconciliation, declaring, at the same time, that I would not leave his lodge until I should see them reconciled. He listened with much attention, made a very appropriate reply, and in finishing, he exclaimed: " all is forgiven and forgotten. How could my heart remain angry whilst I listened to thy words?" Confidence was quickly restored in the assembly, and his short but eloquent reply showed that there was eloquence everywhere when the heart speaks. The little chief who had first spoken of reconciliation ended his remarks by an action that was really moving; stepping up to the man who had been his mortal enemy, he tenderly embraced him, and then, in addition to other gifts, presented him with a beautifully-painted robe, 1Vrought in porcupine. The calumet of peace was cheerfully lighted, and passed around several times. Conversation became animated and friendly, and each one left the council-house with a light and glad heart, more easily felt than described. The chiefs who were present on this
occasion were : Amakzikinne, or the Big Lake ; Onistaistamik, or White Bull; Masléistamik, or Bull-Crow; Aiketzo, or Grande roulette; Sata or the wicked; Akaniaki, or the man who was beaten.
27th. Sunday, I offered up the Holy Sacrifice of the Altar, followed by an instruction on the end of man, at which all the inmates of Fort Lewis attended, together with as many Black-Feet as the large room and passage could contain. -Many a tear escaped from the Canadian, the Creole, and the Spaniard, at the remembrance, no doubt, of the innocent and happy days they spent when young, in attending regularly to their religious duties. Many a pious resolution was lowly made on the present occasion, and their strict attention and devout feelings during divine service, showed that the germ of faith in. them still gave promise of fructifying, however far they may have wandered from the strict line of Christian rectitude. In the afternoon I administered, with all the ceremonies, the sacrament of baptism to thirty children.
From what I have seen, I am firmly convinced of the great good a missionary establishment would produce among the Black-Feet. Assuredly it is a work well worthy the zeal of an apostle: to reclaim these savages from their cruel and bloody wars; to wrest them from the soul-destroying idolatry in which they are plunged, for they are worshippers of the sun and moon : and to teach them the consolatory truths of the Divine Redeemer of mankind, to which they seemed to listen with the utmost attention, and heartfelt satisfaction. Allow me the reflection, the ultimate fate of these fierce and lonely tribes is fixed at no distant date, unless looked to in time. What will become of them? The buffalo-field is becoming narrower from year to year, and each succeeding hunt finds the Indians in closer contact. It is highly probable that the Black-Feet plains, from the Sascatshawin to the Yellow-Stone, will be the last resort of the wild animals twelve years hence. Will these be sufficient to feed and clothe the hundred thousand inhabitants of these western wilds? The Crees, Black-Feet, Assiniboins, Crows, Snakes, Rickaries, and Sioux, will then come together and fight their bloody battles on these plains, and become themselves extinct over the last buffalo-steak. Let those, who have the power and the means, look to it in time. Let some efforts be made to rescue them from the threatened destruction, lest, by guilty negligence, the last drop of aboriginous blood indelibly stain the fair fame of the Spread Eagle, under whose protecting wing they are said to live. Justice makes the appeal.
After mature deliberation upon the various plans devised for the contemplated establishment, it was deemed more advisable that the Reverend Father Point should remain with the Black-Feet, and continue the instructions; while I should go to St. Louis and endeavor to procure the means necessary to establish a permanent mission among them. Accordingly, on the 28th, I took final leave of my companions, of the kind and polite gentlemen of the Fort, of all the Black-Feet then present, who ceased not, during my stay among them, to give me the most marked tokens of affectionate attachment. Our departure was honored by the Fort with a discharge of the guns, and amidst a thousand farewells we glided down the Missouri, from a point 2850 miles above its mouth.
We left the Fort about noon, and encamped 25 miles below, near Bird Island. Next day, while passing the bluffs, on whose steep declivities numerous groups of the big-horn were browsing, we stole a march upon an old buck that came to drink at the water's edge-the first of the many victims sacrificed to our necessities during this long trip. After passing the Maria and Saury rivers, we reach the remarkable formation, the yellow sand-stone walls, on both sides of the Missouri, exhibiting most fantastic shapes and fissures-urns, of various sizes and forms-tables of every description-rostrums, surrounded by mushrooms, pillars, forts, castles, and a multitude of other figures, which, for the greater part of this, and the whole of the following day, furnished to our almost bewildered fancies ample scope for comparisons and theories. We passed, on the 8th of October, the great Elk-horn steeple, near Porcupine Fork. I could not learn what extraordinary event this remarkable tower was intended to commemorate. Several thousand elk-horns have been here piled up, which formerly constituted, I have little doubt, the grand resort of numerous groups of these animals. On the 11th we arrived at Fort Union, 600 miles distant from Fort Lewis, this making about 50 miles a day. Here we met with a very warm reception. We availed ourselves of the kind offer given to us of resting a day at the Fort; while there I baptized five children. We left the Fort on the 13th, with two companions. Large herds of buffalo were seen on both sides of the river, and bears, deer and elks appeared at every bend, so that there is little danger of suffering from want at this season. On the 16th our ardor to press forward, in spite of a strong head-wind, was suddenly cooled by a side wind, which upset the skiff and ourselves in four feet of water. We were now satisfied that tivre had better wait for a more favorable wind, and improve the time by drying our clothes. We started quite refreshed in the afternoon, and made up for the lost time by running sixty miles the next day. On the 17th we met six lodges of Assiniboins ; they received us very kindly in their little camp,-gave us a feast and abundance of provisions. The same day we met eight GrosVentres, who were also exceedingly kind to us, insisting on our accepting a lot of buffalo tongues. A favorable wind on the 18th, induced us to unfurl our sail. We were thus enabled to run about ten miles an hour, and early next day we reached Fort Berthold, where we were kindly entertained by Mr. Brugere. The Gros-Ventres have a village here. I found but a few families ;-one of the chief's invited me to a feast. On the 20th we were hailed by several bands of Indians, and kindly received. We proceeded, and encamped for the night near Knife river ; but our fire discovered our encampment to a band of Indians. The discovery would have been fatal to us, had I not been fortunately recognized by them; for they came armed for destruction, and took us by surprise. As soon as the two leaders knew who I was, they embraced me affectionately; our alarm was soon quieted, and we passed the evening very agreeably in their company; a good smoke, a cup of well sweetened coffee, a few humps and buffalo tongues, put them in a very good humour. They made me a solemn promise, that they would, in future, never molest a white man. They were Arikaras. The next day we breakfasted at Fort Madison, with the good and kind-hearted Mr. Des Autel. Shortly after leaving this Fort, we passed under a scalp attached to the end of a long pole, which projected over the river. This was probably an offering to the sun, to obtain either fresh Scalps or a good hunt. We were hailed by a large village of Arikaras, encamped and fortified on a point of land well timbered. They treated us with great kindness, earnestly pressing me to accept invitations to several buffalo feasts; and as time did not admit of such delay, their liberality fell little short of sinking the skiff, with the most dainty pieces of the hunt. Though late, we proceeded on our journey, principally, indeed, to avoid passing the night in feasting. Having had very favorable weather during the five following days, we reached, on the 26th, the encampment of Mr. Goule, an agent in the service of the American Fur Company. I baptized several half-breed children at this place.
Availing ourselves of the favorable weather the four following days, we kept on the river, drifting down every night, so that early on the 30th, we arrived at Fort Pierre. Mr. Picotte, of St. Louis, received us with the utmost cordiality and politeness. He forced me to remain three days under his hospitable roof. This delay enabled me to see a great number of Sioux, and baptize fifty-four children. Meanwhile Mr. Picotte ordered a large and convenient skiff to be made, and stored it with all sorts of provisions. In all my travels, I have never met one to surpass, perhaps to equal, the overflowing kindness with which this gentleman confers a favor. I cannot sufficiently express my gratitude to him. May God bless and reward him. And, indeed, I must liege add, as a token of my sincere gratitude, that in, all the forts of the American Fur Company, the charitable liberality and kindness of the gentlemen were unbounded.
Late on the 3d November we renewed our journey, but had not proceeded far when we found it necessary to refit our skiff, which, being quite new, leaks considerably. We landed at a large farm belonging to the company on Fleury's Island. We freely used the permission given to us, and committed great havoc among the poultry. On the 5th we breakfasted at Mr. Rouis' Fort, where I baptized thirteen half-breed children-the day was beautiful and we made the whole of the Grande Detour. We arrived at Fort Look-Out, of which I found Kr. Campbell in charge. I baptized here sixteen half-breed children. I was kindly received by a a great number of Sioux. We encamped nine miles lower down at a trading post held by two Canadians, where I baptized four children. On the 10th we passed the entrance of Running-water river, a fine stream with a strong current. Two miles above its mouth were encamped one hundred families of the unhappy and much-abused Mormons - met several Sioux about Great Island, where we encamped. A favorable wind enabled us to reach -Fort Vermilion on the 13th, four hundred miles below Fort Pierre. I baptized seven half-breed children. Mr. Hamilton liberally supplied us with provisions. On the 14th we saw a Mormon along the beach, who fled at our approach. We filet two Canadians who had shot a fine turkey, which they gave me: in return I presented them with some coffee and sugar, rare articles in that country. A fine breeze brought us in sight of the old Council Bluffs on the 1stll. The river has made considerable changes since my former visit to this place; entirely new beds have been formed. For several hundred miles, all the forests along the south side of the river were filled with cattle belonging to the Mormons. On the 18th we passed the ancient trading post, Lisel de Cabanne's-a few miles below is the new temporary settlement of the Mormons, about ten thousand in number. I was presented to their president, Mr. Young, a kind and polite gentleman. He pressed me very earnestly to remain a few days, an invitation which my limited time did not permit me to accept. The persecutions and sufferings endured by this unhappy people, will one day probably form a prominent part of the history of the Far-west. At sun-set we encamped at Mr. Sarpy's trading post, among the upper Potawotomies, where I met several of my old Indian friends, and among them Potogojecs, one of their chiefs, whose Indian legend of their religious traditions will form the subject of my next letter.
20th. A beautiful day – we visited our old friends in Bellevue, the good Mr. Papin and others. We passed the Papillion, the Mosquito, and the Platte rivers, and encamped near Table Creek.
On the 23d we arrived at St. Joseph's, the highest town in Missouri. It is now in a most thriving and prosperous condition; much improved indeed since I last saw it.
28th. We arrived at West-Part, from which I proceeded by stage to St. Louis, the termination of a trip which occupied just two months. I recommend myself to your prayers.
I remain, with sentiments of profound respect and esteem, your obedient servant and brother in Christ.
P. J. DE SMET, S. J.